Blackheads

Blackheads, also known as comedones, develop when a pore becomes blocked with a mixture of sebum (skin oil) and dead skin cells. The dark colour is not dirt, but the result of oxidation: the sebum reacts with oxygen in the air and darkens. Blackheads are the mildest form of acne and are familiar to many people as small black or dark dots, particularly on the nose, chin and forehead. They are open comedones and therefore have an opening to the outside.

Both are comedones but differ in how the pore is sealed. A blackhead (open comedone) has an open pore through which the sebum can oxidise and darken. A whitehead (closed comedone) has a closed pore: the sebum cannot escape and remains white or flesh-coloured. Whiteheads can develop into red spots. Both are treatable with exfoliation, professional cleansing and the right home routine. Our skin therapist treats both types.

We strongly advise against this. Squeezing yourself increases the risk of skin damage, inflammation, scarring and spreading bacteria. You also lack the technique and sterile instruments to do this safely. Pore strips only remove the top layer of a blackhead, not the entire content, and can even enlarge the pore. Professional extraction by our skin therapist is the safe and more effective choice.

The most effective treatments for blackheads at SKIN are the Deep Cleansing Facial (manual extraction after steaming and peeling), the Aqua Peel (water-driven deep pore cleansing), and chemical peels with salicylic acid or glycolic acid that cleanse pores from within. The Carbon Laser Facial is particularly effective for directly removing sebum build-up and reducing pore size. Our skin therapist draws up a treatment plan based on your skin type at intake.

Blackheads are a structural problem with oily and combination skin: they return if sebum production continues. Prevention involves regular exfoliation with AHA or BHA (salicylic acid), twice-daily cleansing with a non-comedogenic cleanser, use of non-comedogenic skincare and make-up, and periodic professional pore cleansing with our skin therapist. Avoid overly rich products on the T-zone. Daily SPF also helps prevent UV-induced pore enlargement.

The most effective ingredients for blackheads are: salicylic acid (BHA, 0.5 to 2 percent) for deep pore cleansing, niacinamide (reduces sebum production and visibly reduces pores), retinol (promotes cell turnover and prevents pore blockages), glycolic acid (AHA for surface exfoliation). Use a non-comedogenic, gentle cleanser twice daily. Avoid comedogenic ingredients such as coconut oil on the T-zone. Our skin therapist is happy to recommend a specific product schedule at the Product Consultation.

Yes, comedogenic make-up can clog pores and promote blackheads. Products with heavy oils, silicones or certain waxes are the main culprits. Always use non-comedogenic foundations, concealers and primers. Always remove make-up thoroughly before going to sleep. Environmental pollution and unclean make-up brushes can also contribute to pore blockages. Our skin therapist is happy to advise on make-up choice for your skin type.

Mild treatments such as the Aqua Peel and hydrating deep cleansing without strong acids are generally safe during pregnancy. High-concentration salicylic acid peels are not recommended. Our skin therapist fully adapts the protocol for pregnant clients. Always discuss it with your midwife or GP. Pregnancy can influence sebum production, which may temporarily worsen or improve blackheads.